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Overview
What To Wear is a funny, fast, smart user's guide to clothes. Keep it handy, because it's designed for easy, frequent reference. It takes you right to what you want to know --- what to wear in everyday situations that trigger fashion anxiety.
What to wear to dazzle at your high school reunion? Impress at a job interview? Celebrate at a wedding? Party over business? Keep a grip on style during your pregnancy? Look serious about work on casual days? Ride out a weight loss in style? Escape a style rut? And lots more.
Kimberly Bonnell blends a fashion insider's know-how with a down-to-earth understanding of every woman's occasional sense of bewilderment about what's best to wear, given today's huge range of fashion options. Her approach is democratic, not exclusionary, and her advice is truly accessible.
Sparked by Eliza Gran's witty illustrations, What To Wear assures you'll face your closet, and what's on your calendar, with confidence. editor for 13 years.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9781250138156 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | St. Martin's Publishing Group |
| Publication date: | 09/27/2016 |
| Sold by: | Macmillan |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 192 |
| File size: | 4 MB |
About the Author
Kimberly Bonnell was a Fashion Director of Glamour magazine and a fashion editor for many years. Now a mother as well, she's a style pro online at Oxygen.com and the author of What To Wear: A Style Handbook. She lives in New York City.
Read an Excerpt
What to Wear
A Style Handbook
By Kimberly Bonnell, Eliza Gran
St. Martin's Press
Copyright © 1999 Kimberly BonnellAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-250-13815-6
CHAPTER 1
To Make the Most of Your Figure
Or is it the least?
Damn those pounds or welcome them, but don't try to dress as if they're not there.
Let's be realistic. You can have the healthiest, most evolved body image in town, fully accept that you're not Elizabeth Hurley, and still want to look five pounds thinner. A boost curvier. A head taller. An inch broader in the shoulders; a belt-notch skimpier in the waist, a size smaller in the hips.
Assuming you tip the scale somewhere between wasted waif and "Danger, Wide Load," you can dress your way to your goal. The only person who might psych out your strategy is the one who probably prefers you naked anyway.
Myth #1: Where you're big, dress big.
No, don't. Whether it's your hips, bustline, bum or third-trimester belly, if it's draped or billowed in yards of fabric it looks bigger.
* Flattery formula: If one piece of your outfit is roomy the other shouldn't be. If the top's spacious, the bottom should be lean. If the bottom piece is fullish, make the top closer-fitting.
Ten Absolute Truths for Every Figure
1. Dark colors are slimming.
2. Pleated skirts are fattening.
3. Ankle-strap shoes make your legs look chunkier and you look shorter.
4. So do ankle boots worn with skirts or dresses.
5. Beefy textures beef you up.
6. Shiny finishes are like a topographical map of all your bumps and bulges.
7. Monochromatic outfits are more minimizing than ones that mix colors.
8. A slim knee-length skirt that's a bit pegged looks better than one that's dead-straight. Lycra helps.
9. Legs look longest when hemline, stocking and shoe match or are in the same tones. If you want to vary one element, it should be the skirt or dress.
10. The number-one universally flattering item is a fingertip-length tailored business jacket with subtly padded shoulders, torso-skimming fit and gently tapered waist.
Don't panic. Your swimsuit size, like everyone else's, will be up to three times bigger than your usual clothing size. Who was the sadist who determined that?
ARE YOU A CANTALOUPE?
Huh? Why have women always been shoved down the food chain when advised about what will look good on them? "Congratulations, strawberry!" Or forced to imagine themselves as human grids with that triangle, circle, square, rectangle thing? Why not just say it the way we all do in fitting rooms, locker rooms, bedrooms and bathrooms across the land. ...
"I HAVE BIG HIPS"
Myth #2: Balance wide hips with wide shoulders.
Yeah, then sign up for the NFL draft — you'll be ready to play linebacker.
* Balance is a good goal, but not if it makes everything look bigger. Tops with some natural-looking padding and subtly defined shape in the torso — a gentle nip at the waist, straight lines and a natural, not deep, armhole — extending either all the way past your hips or just to the top of the hipbone are less obvious and more appealing than a gridiron getup.
More hip-shrinkers:
• Concealing the curve where your hips begin can make you look slimmer. Do it with narrow-cut tops long enough to pass that curve, worn over a slender skirt or pants.
• Lean, fingertip-length tops like long jackets, tunics.
• Top-of-hipbone length tops.
• No cropped tops.
• No tops that hit you at the widest part of your hips.
• No boxy tops.
• Streamlined bottoms that don't add inches.
• Tapered knee-length skirts.
• Dead-straight pants.
• Flat-front or single-pleat pants, skirts.
• Knee-length hemlines.
• No billowy pants or skirts.
• No drawstring waists.
• No allover pleats or gathering.
• No bold patterns, thick textures, shiny finishes.
• Loose, ankle-cropped pants worn with hip-passing lean tops.
• Dresses that streamline you or skim gently past hips.
• Easy-fitting sheaths, tanks.
• Slip dresses.
• Tailored jacket or shirt-dresses.
• Iffy: Empire waists. Maybe doable if you're tall and won't look egg-shaped.
• Details, colors, patterns that streamline you or highlight your top half.
• Monochromatic outfits or lighter shades on top.
• Midline vertical details like a shawl collar, single-breasted jackets.
• Round-collar single-breasted lean coats.
• Minimum inch-high heels.
• No pancake flats.
• Swimsuits with up-top detail like lighter color, halter or bandeau necklines, extra-wide or extra-fine shoulder straps.
• Figure-control suits (18 percent-plus Lycra).
"I'M SHORT"
Myth #3: Short women should dress to emphasize their top half.
Why not just announce it on a sandwich board: "Call me Shorty!" That's what a big draped shawl or look-at-me shoulder pads do, and they've become outdated cliches, if not exactly flattery myths.
* A subtler, more effective, and less limiting way to enhance your height is via the ideal hemline: at the top of your knee. Shorter may work for some; longer rarely does.
A smidge here, a fraction there can make all the difference when you're short, and not just in hemlines. Cast a critical eye on all perimeters: heel height; length of pants, sleeves, jackets and tops.
More height-boosters:
• Assuming no other major figure glitches, you can wear most silhouettes — provided they're proportioned for your height.
• Monochromatic outfits, including shoes.
• Dead-straight or slightly tapered pants.
• Buy pants that fit in the rise and hips; length and waist are easier to alter if necessary.
• Pants you wear with heels should hit no lower than the middle of your bare heel.
• Pants you wear with flats should not hit below your instep.
• Wear oose, ankle-cropped pants like khakis with hipbone-length fitted tops, with or without a top layer like a cardigan, denim jacket, blazer, etc.
• No cuffs.
• No wide legs, unless in flowy fabrics.
• No thickeners: double, triple pleats on trousers; drawstrings; big patterns.
• Tapered or bias-cut knee-length skirts. (Beware of midcalf lengths — possible but very tricky for the height-challenged.)
• Modified A-lines.
• No short-short A-lines.
• Streamlined dresses.
• Knee-length or longer empire dresses if they're subtly empire-seamed and not girlishly sweet; best if detailed or decorated up top, not below the waist.
• No drawstring empires.
• No above-knee empires.
• Cutaway shoulders, halter necklines, turtlenecks.
• Elbow, three-quarter and bracelet-length sleeves.
• Strapless tops, dresses.
• Round-collar coats.
• Hipbone-length jackets and tops.
• Fitted tops.
• No baggy, oversize tops.
• Small-scale prints, patterns, details.
• Accessories — jewelry, bag — in proportion to your size.
• Sleek, unfussy swimsuits.
GOLDILOCKS SHOPS FOR SHOES
A taller tale
In search of shoes to enhance her 5'1" stature, small even by gnome-centric fairy-tale standards, Goldilocks went to the mall. She tried on three pairs of shoes. The first ones, three-inch stiletto pumps, made her legs look ferociously fabulous but pitched her suddenly tall body forward like Pisa's tower. The second pair, funky two-inch platform loafers, made her look groovy but alas, potted, like a plant.
"These high heels not only make me look strange, they are uncomfortable," moaned Goldilocks, reaching for a pair of pancake-flat slip-ons. They felt delicious but now she looked as if she were standing in her friend Alice's hole-in-the-ground doorway to Wonderland.
She stood there barefoot, cursing the fashion industry, when along came Happy the Dwarf, a salesman at this particular store. He winked and smiled as he said, "Don't worry, I have just what you need."
"Height implants?" queried G. excitedly.
"Noooo," replied Happy, "two-inch heels! And one-inch ones, too."
Well, these were perfect. Two-inch heels made Goldilocks feel on top of the world without fearing that she'd fall face down onto it. The stacked heel pumps and the slender-heel slingbacks both did the trick. And the inch heel driving shoes became Goldilocks's everyday favorite. She even wore them to the three bears' annual porridge brunch — maybe you heard about that?
"I HAVE TO DRESS AROUND MY 38DD BREASTS"
Myth #4: Hide big breasts in loose tops.
A corollary to myth #1 and just as wrong.
* Just remember the two Ts: tailoring and tucked in. Apply one or both to every outfit.
Effective minimizers:
• A minimizer bra. Most promise to take you down one cup size.
• The defined, constructed shoulder line of a tailored jacket or menswear-style shirt.
• No droopy shoulders.
• Surprise: A close fit and defined waist, like you get from a stretch-infused turtleneck, a waist-nipped lean jacket or a tucked-in top. (If you feel self-conscious revealing your waist, cover up with a cardigan or jacket over your tucked-in top.)
• No sloppy, baggy, hanging-out tops.
• Midweight knits.
• No bulky cables, boucles, thick ribs.
• No ultrathin weights.
• High necklines and below-the-waist length in tops.
• V-neck and scoop necklines if the item's cut is slim and the fit somewhat close (loose, blousey V-necks aren't flattering).
• Boatnecks.
• Dark colors on top.
• No big-scale patterns.
• Simple designs on top.
• No ruffles, empire waists, embroidery, beading.
• Swimsuits with good built-in support. Some brands have actual back-clasp bra support.
• Wide straps.
• Darker color on top, in one piece or two.
If you didn't see yourself in any of the lists above, refer to the size chart on the next page.
Five More Truths
1. A small-scale print on a dark background can be effective camouflage, especially on a swimsuit. Big or noisy ones, however, flatter sofas, not people.
2. If "slimming" vertical stripes are enough to make an awning stand out, they surely won't make your hips disappear.
3. Don't be a slave to size. Buy what fits.
4. Really wide hair makes you look shorter, but really straight hair doesn't necessarily make you look taller.
5. There's a five-pound reason why so many women are addicted to black.
TECHNOLOGY TO THE RESCUE!
Control lingerie for every out-of-control curve
Control underpinnings have proliferated beyond the classic tummy-control panties and hosiery. Almost all the big-name lingerie companies are in on the craze, including Lily of France, Playtex, Victoria's Secret, Bali, Donna Karan and, the mother of them all, Bodyslimmers by Nancy Ganz.
Guess what? These babies really do work! The high-octane percentage of Lycra makes you smoother, trimmer and, notably for nonmasochistic types, it is not wildly uncomfortable. Find control lingerie at specialty stores like Nordstrom and Saks Fifth Avenue, at their own boutiques (VS), via catalogs and on the Internet. Check out:
• Control leggings — knee-length thigh slimmers to wear under pants.
• Tummy control thong — sexy, flattening, no pantylines.
• Hip-hugger slip — a half slip that sleeks you for low-slung or pencil skirts.
• Waist cincher — smooths you from thighs to bustline (some are bodysuits with built-in bras, others stop just below the bustline).
• Bodydress — a figure-friendly full slip, this makes skimming dresses actually skim, not stumble over your body.
• Butt booster — panties to flatten you in front and tone you in back.
• Bust enhancer/reducer — there's a shape-morphing bra for every urge: look bigger and curvier or smaller and flatter.
The Ten Commandments of Jeans
1. Skimpy back pockets make your butt look bigger.
2. Turn dark-rinse jeans inside out before washing to prevent fading, and don't put them in the dryer.
3. White classic-cut jeans are eternally hip and to be worn year-round.
4. Jeans worn with inch or inch-and-a-half slingback heels can be bewitchingly sexy.
5. No two jeans makers size the same way.
6. You will try on between six and ten pairs of jeans, minimum, every time you shop for a new pair.
7. Don't wear jeans with the athletic shoes you actually work out in.
8. Absolutely avoid the hem of your jeans crumpling at the tops of your shoes. Change the jeans (or hem them) or the shoes.
9. Tapered jeans and pleated jeans are regrettable inventions. Don't go near them.
10. Sit down, bend over, crouch, cross your legs in those jeans you're trying on. Uncomfortable ones are uniquely torturous.
FOLLOW-UP
Are you a size 14-plus? Then you'll want to keep up with the news of the increasing range of style choices coming your way, from blue jeans to ball gowns, lingerie to fitness wear. Here are two of the best ways to keep up:
1. Susan Weber, aka Grandstyle, maintains an up-to-the-minute resource list and lots of upbear advice on her website, http://www.grandstyle.com.
2. Mode magazine, put together for plus-size women with all the gloss you want from a newsy fashion magazine but none of the inaccessibility. Great images, solid information, smart insights and real understanding.
CHAPTER 2To a Casual-Dress Workplace
There are rules in most casual-dress workplaces, just not the old ones. And often not very clear ones. Some firms have written casual codes, but others (most) are making up ad hoc guidelines as they go along.
This adds up to as many dress codes as there are places to work! Yikes.
Wearing something "wrong" to work one day shouldn't kill your chances for a raise or promotion, even CEO-hood; you'll figure out pretty quickly that you miscalculated with that granny dress (or was it a nightgown?) and not wear it again. A string of "wrong" clothes, however, isn't a healthy career move.
Relieve the anxiety and spearhead a drive to create a written casual code where you work, even if it's simply a list of what's not allowed.
Stop! Don't Wear ...
Anything you'd wear to wash the dog, the car or your hair.
Clothes or shoes you intentionally sweat in.
More than one denim thing at a time.
Extreme denim — bleached, abused, ultrabig, ultratight.
Anything you'd wear to a seduction.
Floral-print pants.
T-shirts that promote, proclaim or picture things. (Your company logo excepted.)
Sweatshirts, even unaffiliated ones.
Sweatpants.
T-shirts that have ever been worn as underwear, yours or his.
Anything so loose or oversized it would fit you fifteen pounds heavier.
Anything so tight or skimpy it would fit you fifteen pounds lighter.
The old leggings-and-a-big-top duo.
Clothes with cut-outs, designed or self-inflicted.
Anything your mom might term "grubby."
It's Probably Okay to Wear ...
Bermuda-length shorts. No shorter.
A skirt or dress to midthigh. No shorter.
A skirt or dress to the bottom of your calf. No longer.
Clean, sharp, sleek sneakers, whether tennis or boating classics or the latest techno models.
Something sleeveless, if the neckline and back are modest.
A huge floral print, provided there are no ruffles involved.
Well-fitting overalls. (But your boss probably wishes you wouldn't.)
Loose-fitting drawstring-type pants, not sheer.
One easy solution is to pair a piece that's business-traditional with one that's more informal.
Try:
Menswear-inspired trousers, knit top (polo, good-quality tee, ribbed pullover, jersey shell), loafers.
Khakis or jeans (black or dark denim); twinset; low-heel or flat slingbacks, ballet flats (no socks with these) or short boots.
Slim, neutral-color cotton twill flat-front pants; sleeveless shell, ribbed pullover or untucked menswear shirt; flats (loafers, ballets, short boots).
Jeans (black, white or dark blue denim; corduroy) or jeans-style pants in tailored fabrics (e.g., unlined gray flannel); cashmere (or cashmere-ish) turtleneck or menswear shirt; boots, loafers, slingbacks or sneakers.
IS A DRESS OKAY? YES, IF IT ...
Isn't flimsy, slinky, beachy, sheer, down to your ankles or up to your thighs.
Is traditional in tone, like a polo knit, a sheath or shift (yes, even decorated with jumbo peonies), a shirtdress (no shorter than an inch above the knee), a modest tank dress.
Doesn't require a special bra, e.g., no halters, backless, camisole-style, spaghetti straps.
Shoes can move an outfit up or down on the casual scale. Like this:
• When clothes are inherently very casual (jeans or a T-shirt), not-casual shoes tip the look from play to work. Oxfords, loafers, ankle boots, flat pumps, slingbacks or ballet flats can do it. Sneakers, Tevas, flip-flops or sandals can't.
• Flip side: When clothes are traditional (menswear pants or a tailored jacket), "play" shoes — sneakers, driving moccasins, sandals — make the whole effect more relaxed.
Thirteen Instant Casualizers
(besides those shoes)
1. Leave off socks when you wear pants.
2. Lose the business jacket.
3. Wear the business jacket, buttoned up, and lose the top beneath it; wear it this way with pants, sockless flats.
4. Trade the working-woman jewelry (gold-tone button earrings, pearls) for more individual, personal-looking pieces.
5. Switch from serious footwear to driving moccasins, ballet flats, flat espadrilles or no-tech sneakers when wearing pants.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from What to Wear by Kimberly Bonnell, Eliza Gran. Copyright © 1999 Kimberly Bonnell. Excerpted by permission of St. Martin's Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
Title Page,Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
Introduction,
WHAT TO WEAR,
1. to make the most of your figure Or, um, is it the least?,
2. to a casual-dress workplace Yes, there are rules, just not the old ones.,
3. to a job interview You want them to want you: clothes as a job skill.,
4. to look promotable Dress for the spot you want next.,
5. to speak in public or appear on TV All you want is to be charming and brilliant, right?,
6. to a wedding, not yours It's rite and ritual wrapped in a party; dress to honor the former, dress up for the latter.,
7. to the reunion Dazzle. Provoke envy, regret, disbelief.,
8. to a party, any party Backyard barbecue to black-tie benefit and everything in between.,
9. to an un-party: a funeral or memorial service Pay respects to the dead without offending the living.,
10. to avoid the "looks like a tourist" trap Maybe you really don't want to wear that "I love Peanutville" T-shirt while standing smack in the middle of ... Peanutville.,
11. in any season, any weather Rules, rules gone away, won't come back another day.,
12. to your pregnancy Welcome to nature's amazing makeover.,
13. to escape a style rut The fine line between sticking to a look and being stuck in it.,
14. to look older when you're young or younger when you're not Let's start with that nose ring.,
Notes,
About the Author,
Copyright,