Jam Session: A Fruit-Preserving Handbook [A Cookbook]

by Joyce Goldstein

Overview

A handbook for fruit preserving, with 75 basic and special recipes for jams, jellies, chutneys, and compotes, by chef emeritus and master preserver Joyce Goldstein.

Jam Session is the lushly photographed and selective guide to making all-natural fruit preserves, organized by type of fruit and seasonal availability, with descriptions of the best varieties for preserving plus master recipes and contemporary variations for each type of fruit. Former restaurant chef/owner, culinary historian, and master preserver Joyce Goldstein includes straightforward, no-fail instructions for canning fruit preserves, along with serving ideas for using preserves for much more than toast, including Mango-Lime Jam to elevate pork tenderloin, Pickled Peaches to perk up fried chicken, and Apricot Jam to glaze cake. Packed with ideas, 75 time-tested recipes, and gorgeous photographs of produce, process, and finished fruit preserves, preserving newcomers and veterans alike will find Goldstein's handbook just the right amount of instruction and inspiration.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9780399579622
Publisher:	Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed
Publication date:	06/26/2018
Sold by:	Random House
Format:	eBook
Pages:	264
File size:	123 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

JOYCE GOLDSTEIN is a former Chez Panisse chef; the retired chef/owner of James Beard Award–winning restaurant Square One; and the author of twenty-eight books. Her preserves are sold at gourmet locations, such as Bi-Rite Market in San Francisco and Bread Furst in Washington, DC, and enjoyed by her very lucky grandchildren. She lives in San Francisco.

Read an Excerpt

CARROT-GINGER JAM 

Scant 2 pounds carrots
1 orange
1 lemon
6 ounces fresh ginger
2 cups water
1 cup orange juice
4 cups granulated sugar
6 to 8 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch of ground ginger (optional)
Pinch of ground cayenne or Aleppo or Maras pepper (optional)

Yield: 7 half-pint jars
 
1. Place 3 or 4 small plates in the freezer.

2. Peel, trim, and grate the carrots, using a food processor. Remove from the food processor bowl and set aside. You will have about 6 cups.

3. Halve and seed the orange and lemon. Cut the citrus into chunks, add to the food processor bowl, and pulse until pureed. Remove from the food processor bowl and set aside.

4. Peel and slice the ginger. Add to the food processor bowl and pulse until pureed. You will have about 1 cup.

5. In a large preserving pot, gently combine the carrots, orange and lemon, ginger, water, and orange juice. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then decrease the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and let it sit, uncovered, for 1 hour.

6. Add the sugar and 3 to 4 tablespoons of the lemon juice and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off the heat and let sit, uncovered, for 30 minutes.

7. Place a baking sheet on the counter near your stove. Heat a kettle of water. Set two stockpots on the stove and fill them with enough water to cover the jars by 1 to 2 inches. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Sterilize the jars (see page 32) in the water bath.

8. Taste the jam and stir in the remaining 3 to 4 tablespoons of lemon juice as needed. If the ginger is too mild, add a pinch of ground ginger or hot pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat; then decrease the heat to low and simmer the jam for a few minutes longer, until it thickens
and passes the plate test (see page 30), achieving a soft set and mounding on the plate. It should be syrupy, not dry. Remove the pot from the heat.

9. Bring the water bath back to a boil. If the jars have cooled, warm them in the water bath or in a 200°F oven. Simmer the lids in a saucepan of hot water. Place the jars on the baking sheet.

10. Ladle the jam into the jars, leaving 1⁄4-inch headspace. Wipe the rims clean and set the lids on the mouths of the jars. Twist on the rings.

11. Using a jar lifter, gently lower the jars into the pots. When the water returns to a boil, decrease the heat to an active simmer, and process the jars for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the jars in the water for 1 to 2 minutes.

12. Using the jar lifter, transfer the jars from the pots to the baking sheet and let sit for at least 6 hours, until cool enough to handle. Check to be sure the jars have sealed (see page 34). Label and store the sealed jam for 6 months to 2 years. Once open, store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

Editorial Reviews

05/01/2018
Interested in making your own preserves? Former Chez Panisse chef Goldstein, author of several cookbooks, including The New Mediterranean Jewish Table, offers a detailed guide. The author shares her background on preserving, then presents "a primer" on the basics of preparation and food safety. Equipment is discussed, along with "techniques and pointers" such as macerating, skimming, and timing. Fruit is profiled seasonally with recipes for jams, chutneys, marmalades, and preserves, along with specialized items such as spicy tomato ketchup and apple butter. Spring and summer provide many choices—in spring, strawberries, rhubarb, cherries, and carrots are featured in recipes for carrot-rhubarb jam and cherry-orange marmalade. In summer, Goldstein shows how to make use of peaches, currants, and berries with recipes such as Sicilian peach and lemon preserves and red currant jam. Pears, apples and quince are highlighted with apple chutney and membrillo for fall, while winter rounds out with citrus, pumpkin and winter squash and cranberry-tangerine preserves. VERDICT Public libraries should own many resources on this topic, and Goldstein's accessible guide presents an excellent option for those seeking to create and enjoy their own preserves.—Barbara Kundanis, Longmont P.L., CO

Library Journal

Named an Eater Best New Cookbook of Summer 2018

“Each growing season and subsequent harvest marks a fresh opportunity to unleash Joyce Goldstein’s unrelenting passion for preserving peak flavors for another day. My family and I have been fortunate to be on the receiving end of Joyce’s jams, chutneys, and preserves, and each time we unscrew one of those lids, it is as if the flavor genie jumps out of the jar. The love and good taste that goes into the cooking and jarring can be tasted in each memorable bite.” —Danny Meyer, author of Setting the Table

“I’ve waited (impatiently) for this glorious book. It’s a must for preservers and lovers of flavor. I’ll be cooking out of it for the rest of my life.” —Diana Henry, London Telegraph columnist and author of A Bird in the Hand

“ Culinary hero Joyce Goldstein guides us through the technical details and inspires creativity with seasonal recipes and clear, passionate descriptions of the craft of fine preserving. This book is sure to become a time-honored classic on the subject.” —Suzanne Goin, chef and author of The A.O.C. Cookbook

From the Publisher