Table of Contents
Acknowledgments 9
Introduction 10
Environmental Considerations and the Leave No Trace (LNT) Ethic 12
Chapter 1 Gear
Dressing and Packing for Success 19
The Ice Ax 25
Crampons 31
Ski Poles and Trekking Poles 34
Avalanche Equipment 35
Chapter 2 Getting Started: Ascending
Slope Ratings and Difficulty Levels 40
The Fall Line 41
Daily and Seasonal Changes in the Snowpack 43
Climbing Techniques 50
Transition Zones 66
Energy Conservation and Routefinding Skills 67
Chapter 3 Using Your Ice Ax
Carrying Your Ice Ax 72
Using the Spike as a Point of Balance or Support 77
Techniques that Drive the Pick into the Snow for Balance or Support 85
Swinging Techniques 90
Cutting or Chopping Steps and Platforms 91
Climbing With Two Axes 96
Climbing Over a Lip 97
Chapter 4 Descending
Descending Over an Edge 102
Chopping Steps 104
Downhill Step Techniques 105
Crampons: Techniques for Descending 110
Glissading 114
Chapter 5 Self-Arresting
The Basics of Self-Arresting 123
Self-Arresting While Wearing Crampons 130
Self-Arresting While Wearing a Backpack 130
Self-Arresting Using Ski Poles 131
Chapter 6 Traversing, Resting, and Other Skills
Traversing 134
Resting 136
Other Skills 138
Planning Your Snow Climb 142
Communication on the Mountain 143
Additional Considerations for Skiers and Snowboarders 145
Chapter 7 Hazards and How to Avoid Them
Elephant Traps 160
Snow Gators 161
Avalanches 162
Cornices 166
Snowbridges over Creek Crossings 168
Rockfall 168
Crevasses 169
Whiteouts 171
Thunderstorms 171
Sunburn 172
Hypothermia 172
Frostbite 173
Trench Foot 173
Plan Your Day To Avoid Hazards 174
Appendix: Teaching a Snow Travel 101 Class 175
Glossary 179
Resources 183
Index 185
