Master of Thin Air: Life and Death on the World's Highest Peaks

by Andrew Lock, Peter Hillary (Foreword by)

Overview

Named one of the “Five Adventure Books You Need to Read This Summer” by Backpacker Magazine

For readers of Into Thin Air, riveting high-altitude drama and the passion and drive that inspire outsized mountaineering achievements.

Master of Thin Air opens with a fall that the author very nearly could not stop down an almost vertical rock ramp leading to a three-thousand-foot drop. The qualities that saved him then on K2—in addition to his mountaineering know-how and sheer good luck—drove his sixteen-year journey to summit all of the world's eight-thousanders, the fourteen peaks that exceed 8,000 meters (26,000-plus feet) and take climbers into the death zone. Incredibly, he accomplished that feat without the aid of bottled oxygen for every mountain but one. By preference, he climbed solo or in small teams, without Sherpas. During twenty-three expeditions, he spent a total of three years clinging to the sides of dangerous mountains. He lost more than twenty climbing friends and, in April 2014, witnessed Everest's deadliest avalanche.

His book is a riveting, often thrilling account of what it takes to challenge the Earth's highest peaks and survive. It tells of death-defying ascents and even riskier descents, the gut-dropping consequences of the smallest mistakes or even just bad luck, the camaraderie and human drama of expeditions, the exhilaration of altitude. It is also the inspiring story of what motivates a person to achieve an extraordinary dream, a story of passion, resourcefulness, self-motivation, and hope—even in the most dire moments.

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Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781628725735
Publisher:	Arcade
Publication date:	09/08/2015
Pages:	364
Sales rank:	242,381
Product dimensions:	6.20(w) x 9.10(h) x 1.30(d)

About the Author

Andrew Lock was the eighteenth person ever to scale all fourteen eight-thousanders, though he comes from the flattest country on earth. Awarded the Order of Australia for Services to Mountaineering, he has guided multiple teams to the summit of Mount Everest and the other highest peaks of the world. A professional keynote and motivational speaker on leadership, motivation, teamwork, goal setting, and risk management. He lives in Campbell, Australia. Visit his site at www.andrew-lock.com.

Table of Contents

The 8000ers vi

Map vii

Foreword Sandy Allan ix

Introduction Peter Hillary xiii

Prologue: July 30, 1993 1

1 Beginnings 5

2 A Taste of Thin Air 23

3 The Savage Mountain 49

4 Frustration 76

5 Turning the Key 92

6 Summits and Betrayals 126

7 A Dream Realised 148

8 A Higher Goal 163

9 High-Altitude Hollywood 191

10 Good Days and Bad 205

11 A Big Day Out 225

12 The Most Dangerous Mountain in the World 240

13 Getting Close 256

14 Finish Line 273

15 The Next Step 291

Epilogue 305

Acknowledgements 311

Glossary of Mountaineering Terms 313

Index 319

Editorial Reviews

“Superb . . . In this book, you will discover how, time and time again, a man can draw on this inner strength.”—Doug Scott, CBE, mountaineer and author

"Brilliant! Honest, gritty, and riveting."—Chris Bonington, CVO, CBE, mountaineer and author

“What Andrew has done is outstanding—the toughest grand slam on the planet—the 14 x 8000ers!”—Peter Hillary, renowned adventurer and son of Sir Edmund Hillary, first man to summit Mount Everest

“Excellent. Andrew Lock has ably demonstrated that true adventure is still to be found in the high altitude climbing arena, despite current trends toward commercially tainted expeditions. But perhaps more notably, in the process of three grueling decades climbing in the bleak, rarefied atmosphere of the 8,000-meter peaks, he was able to find a clarity of vision that enriched his soul. This book is a must read for alpinists intent on seeking their own true nature at any altitude.”—Pat Morrow, legendary mountaineer, author, mountain filmmaker

“Andrew Lock reminds us that the greatness of the human spirit is sustained by men and woman who refuse to give up, who represent the indomitable willpower that has allowed humankind to reach the stars.”—Bryce Courtenay, author of The Power of One

"An honest account of what a pragmatic, tough and dogged Aussie can achieve with will, experience, heart and an infatuation for the high Himalaya. Bravo!" —Barry Blanchard, UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide, Canmore, Canada

“This mountaineer isn’t simply a thrill seeker. He is a student of his passion and passes along his knowledge of the craft to readers, breaking down everything from the geographical characteristics of each mountain to what he carries in his pack. . . . Lock’s intensity remains constant throughout . . . as he relies on a combination of experience, strength, grit, determination and intuition to get him up and down the Himalayas and beyond.”—Associated Press

"Lock’s transformation from his lowland roots to his spectacular successes will thrill many . . . Lock is one of the few people to conquer all 8,000-meter summits, making his memoir required reading for adventure enthusiasts and distant admirers alike." —Library Journal

One of the Top 5 Reads for the Summer, U.S. Backpacker Magazine

“Superb . . . In this book, you will discover how, time and time again, a man can draw on this inner strength.”—Doug Scott, CBE, mountaineer and author

"Brilliant! Honest, gritty, and riveting."—Chris Bonington, CVO, CBE, mountaineer and author

“What Andrew has done is outstanding—the toughest grand slam on the planet—the 14 x 8000ers!”—Peter Hillary, renowned adventurer and son of Sir Edmund Hillary, first man to summit Mount Everest

“Excellent. Andrew Lock has ably demonstrated that true adventure is still to be found in the high altitude climbing arena, despite current trends toward commercially tainted expeditions. But perhaps more notably, in the process of three grueling decades climbing in the bleak, rarefied atmosphere of the 8,000-meter peaks, he was able to find a clarity of vision that enriched his soul. This book is a must read for alpinists intent on seeking their own true nature at any altitude.”—Pat Morrow, legendary mountaineer, author, mountain filmmaker

“Andrew Lock reminds us that the greatness of the human spirit is sustained by men and woman who refuse to give up, who represent the indomitable willpower that has allowed humankind to reach the stars.”—Bryce Courtenay, author of The Power of One

"An honest account of what a pragmatic, tough and dogged Aussie can achieve with will, experience, heart and an infatuation for the high Himalaya. Bravo!" —Barry Blanchard, UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide, Canmore, Canada

“This mountaineer isn’t simply a thrill seeker. He is a student of his passion and passes along his knowledge of the craft to readers, breaking down everything from the geographical characteristics of each mountain to what he carries in his pack. . . . Lock’s intensity remains constant throughout . . . as he relies on a combination of experience, strength, grit, determination and intuition to get him up and down the Himalayas and beyond.”—Associated Press

"Lock’s transformation from his lowland roots to his spectacular successes will thrill many . . . Lock is one of the few people to conquer all 8,000-meter summits, making his memoir required reading for adventure enthusiasts and distant admirers alike." —Library Journal

One of the Top 5 Reads for the Summer, U.S. Backpacker Magazine

From the Publisher

09/15/2015
Lock presents a harrowing memoir of high-altitude adventure on the highest mountain peaks in the world. The Australian adventurer brings readers to the frozen slopes of Nepal, Tibet, and Pakistan, where climbers risk injury or death. The narrative introduces a broad spectrum of mountaineers from all over the world, many of whom lose their lives in this dangerous pursuit. The mountains also have their own personalities: the alluring Everest, the elusive Shishapangma, and the deadly Annapurna. The memoir does not steer far from the cold and wet heights, providing continuous, high-stakes action. Although some may find the constant struggle overbearing, Lock's transformation from his lowland roots to his spectacular successes will thrill many. He reveals the spiritual dimension encountered within these snow-and-ice-covered struggles. Lock discusses the difficulties between his urge to climb and the necessities of finance as well as the desire to form lasting relationships. He also provides commentary on the dangerous commercialization of Mount Everest. VERDICT Lock is one of the few people to conquer all 8,000-meter summits, making his memoir required reading for adventure enthusiasts and distant admirers alike.—Jeffrey Meyer, Mt. Pleasant P.L., IA

Library Journal