Big Style in Small Spaces: Easy DIY Projects to Add Designer Details to Your Apartment, Condo or Urban Home
192
Big Style in Small Spaces: Easy DIY Projects to Add Designer Details to Your Apartment, Condo or Urban Home
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Overview
Sarah Dorsey, founder of Dorsey Designs and professional interior designer, has created over 30 beautiful, multifunctional décor projects that are perfect for your small home. Little touches like leather-wrapped cabinet handles and a shibori-dyed tablecloth fill your home with warmth and personality, and clever pieces like a sofa arm table and floating nightstand are easy to make yourself and help maximize the space you have.
With projects for every corner of your home, you can liven up your kitchen with herbal planters, soften your seating with modified pillows and throws and bring visual interest to your entryway with personalized signs. The pieces in this book were designed for apartments, rental spaces and smaller homes to help you pack a lot of style into a little footprint. All of these projects are doable in a single weekend—or even a day—and budget-friendly, making it easy to create the stunning space of your dreams.
Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9780594127444 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | Page Street Publishing |
| Publication date: | 06/18/2019 |
| Pages: | 192 |
| Sales rank: | 200,979 |
| Product dimensions: | 7.90(w) x 8.90(h) x 0.70(d) |
About the Author
Read an Excerpt
CHAPTER 1
FLOATING CONSOLE with Geometric Wood Doors
Time frame: 2 days | Workspace: Large
Creating a floating console out of kitchen cabinets is a smart way to get a streamlined storage piece that can be sized specifically for your space. Adding geometric wood veneer to the front takes it from basic to "Wow!"
When I was developing projects for this book, this project was one that I couldn't wait to try myself. The result was just what I had imagined in my head (love it when that happens). Read on to see how we built this custom floating console.
MATERIALS
• 4 (15" × 18" [38 × 45–cm]) IKEA Haggerby flat-front cabinet doors
• 2' × 8' (60 × 240–cm) oak veneer with peel-and-stick back
• Pencils
• Yardstick or tape measure
• X-ACTO knife with #11 blades
• Self-healing cutting mat
• 2 (15" × 36" [38 × 91–cm]) IKEA Sektion flat-front cabinet bases
• ½" (13-mm) or ¾" (19-mm) plywood or 19½" × 765/8" (48.75 × 191.5–cm) IKEA Forsand door (optional)
• 15" (38 cm) of ¾" (19-mm) white melamine edging
• Iron
1. To create the wood grain pattern as shown, lay the first cabinet door horizontally on the veneer and turn the door clockwise until the upper right and lower left corners are even and parallel with the top of the veneer. Place the second door to the right with the long edge against the short edge of the first door. Place a pencil between the doors to create even spacing. Repeat this sequence for the second set of doors.
2. Once all of the doors are laid out, carefully trace around the edges using a pencil. Remove the doors and use the yardstick to trace a vertical line on the veneer connecting the top and bottom corners of the first and third doors and horizontal lines connecting the left and right corners of the second and fourth doors. Measure and lay out cut lines ¼ inch (6 mm) from the traced edges of the doors.
3. Using the X-ACTO knife, cut along the diagonal of the rectangle. One will be with the grain and the other will be against the grain.
4. Lay all the doors out and place the veneer as shown. Remove the backing gradually, starting at the center, and carefully align the corner of the veneer with the corner of the door. As you go, smooth the veneer down and gradually pull the paper back until the entire piece of veneer is attached. (Tip: It is helpful to have an extra set of hands for this step. The veneer isn't forgiving and should be applied correctly the first time.)
5. Repeat step 4, but this time place the contrasting grain veneer, carefully aligning the center edge. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each door.
6. On a self-healing cutting mat, flip the first door over and carefully trim any excess veneer with the X-ACTO knife and #11 blade.
7. Attach the doors to the cabinet bases.
8. If desired, add a top to cover the top seam between the cabinets. Measure the entire console and cut the top to fit. (Note that an IKEA Forsand door was used for the console pictured after cutting its width and length to fit.) If you don't have access to a saw, the top can be cut at a home improvement store from ¾-inch (19-mm) birch plywood.
9. Finish the cut edge of the top by applying the white melamine edging with an iron on medium heat.
10. Trim any excess melamine edging on a self-healing cutting mat with an X-ACTO knife and #11 blade. Then attach it to the wall, following the cabinet manufacturer's instructions.
CHAPTER 2QUICK CHEVRON COFFEE TABLE
Time frame: 1 hour | Workspace: Medium
One of my favorite projects from the early days of our blog is a wood herringbone coffee table. We lovingly milled and finished each piece of driftwood and built a coffee table top. It was time consuming to say the least!
We wanted to create a project that had the look without all the work! And we've done just that! Using a prefinished chevron wood countertop and adding legs creates high style with minimal effort.
I love a long table in front of the sofa. If space allows, make your table long and place lidded baskets underneath for extra storage — perfect for small spaces! Read on to see how we created this stunning, easy coffee table.
MATERIALS
• 1 wood countertop (IKEA Barkaboda countertop, 74" [188 cm] shown)
• Ruler
• Pencil
• 4 (14" [35-cm] high) satin black hairpin leg, screws included
• Drill with 1/16" (2-mm) drill bit and Phillips bit
PROJECT NOTE
Most wood countertops come in standard lengths, with all edges finished. If the size doesn't work for your space, it can also be cut to size with a table saw or circular saw. Wood countertops from IKEA come with a veneer strip that you can secure to the exposed edge if you decide to cut. Also, stores that sell custom countertops will be able to cut to size for you, if you don't have access to a saw.
1. To plan the placement of the legs, place the countertop on the floor with the bottom side up. From the short side of the countertop, measure in 6 inches (15 cm) and make a mark with a pencil. From the long side of the countertop, measure in 2 inches (5 cm) and mark. Repeat this on all remaining corners.
2. Where the 6-inch (15-cm) and 2-inch (5-cm) marks align, place the outer corner of the hairpin leg. The angle of the leg should flare out, as seen in the photo. Locate the hole on the bottom of the leg, and mark the location of the hole with a pencil on the countertop. Repeat on all remaining corners. Remove the legs.
3. On all marks created in step 2, predrill holes approximately the length of the screw with a -inch (2-mm) drill bit. Be careful to not drill through the entire countertop.
4. Place the hairpin leg, with the bottom of the leg flared out, on the countertop. Align it with the predrilled holes. Using the screws that were provided with the hairpin legs, secure the screws with a drill (a driver can also be used in this application). Repeat so all legs are secured. Flip your new table over and enjoy!
CHAPTER 3LEATHER CIRCLE PILLOW
Time frame: 2 to 4 hours | Workspace: Small
Adding leather accents to a pillow might be easier than you think! Utilizing no-sew permanent adhesive and leather gives this a luxe look for less and can be completed in just an hour or so. The glue is permanent so, if needed, the pillow can be washed.
MATERIALS
• 11½" (28.75-cm) diameter bowl
• 20" × 20" (50 × 50–cm) solid pillow sham with zipper (I got mine at H&M)
• 14" (35-cm) square piece of leather (such as from Leather Hide Store)
• Pen or pencil
• Scissors
• Sewing machine with natural thread (optional, if you would like a faux-stitched edge)
• Waterproof material (to be placed inside the pillow to prevent the glue from bleeding through)
• Ruler
• Masking or painter's tape
• Fabric and leather permanent glue
1. Place the bowl on top of the pillow sham to determine the desired size of the leather circle.
2. Place the bowl on the back side of the leather and trace around it with a pen or pencil.
3. Carefully cut along the line created in step 2 with sharp scissors. Go slowly, so that the cut is even.
4. You can create a stitch around the leather circle to make it appear as though it is sewn on the pillow. Using a narrow zipper foot as a guide, slowly sew around the entire circle so that there is a stitch around the perimeter. Contrasting, natural colored thread should be used. (Tip: Go slowly and stop very frequently to adjust the leather circle to keep a uniform line.) This step can be skipped if you do not have a sewing machine. You can also try hand-stitching if you prefer.
5. If your fabric is thin, place the waterproof material inside the pillow sham to prevent the glue from potentially bleeding through.
6. Place the pillow so the exterior is facing outward. Center the leather circle by measuring on all sides so that it is even.
7. As you measure, place small pieces of tape around the circle to reference later as you glue the circle down.
8. Starting at one edge, apply an even layer of permanent glue that is designed to work with both fabric and leather.
9. Hold down on the pillow sham to allow the adhesive to set and smooth out the glue as you go. Apply a little at a time and press smooth as the glue tends to dry quickly. (Tip: Be careful to not apply too much glue around the edge since it will be visible if it gaps out.)
CHAPTER 4WOOD VENEER PHOTO MAT
Time frame: 2 to 4 hours | Workspace: Small
Photo mats add definition and elevate a photo or piece of art by creating visual separation between the image and frame. While they are optional, I typically include one to make a piece extra special.
Refresh an old mat or enhance a cheap, new mat by adding wood veneer to create interest and texture to your favorite frame. I used wood veneer left over from our Floating Console with Geometric Wood Doors (here) to create these geometric mats. This project will also work with one piece of veneer if you prefer a seamless look. It can be tailored to your preference.
Frames are perfect in smaller spaces because you can make a visual statement on a wall and not add to the footprint. Read on to see how to add texture to your plain mat!
MATERIALS
• Photo mat (16" × 20" [40 × 50–cm] mat shown; select a frame with a mat in it, purchase a precut mat or cut your own)
• Peel-and-stick wood veneer (oak shown; be sure to purchase enough veneer to accommodate the square footage of the photo mat)
• Pencil
• Self-healing cutting mat
• 2 (18" [45-cm]) metal rulers with cork backs (or additional straight edge)
• X-ACTO knife with #11 blades
• Frame of choice (16" × 20" [40 × 50–cm] frame shown)
1. Lay the photo mat on top of the veneer. If you are using 1 piece of veneer for the entire mat, mark the four outer corners and four inner corners with a pencil. If you are using pieces to fill the mat, as shown here, trace all the inside and outside edges directly on the veneer with a pencil.
2. Lay the wood veneer traced in step 1 on the self-healing cutting mat. Align a ruler on the marks created in step 1 and trim the veneer with the X-ACTO knife fitted with a #11 blade.
3. Once the piece is cut out, remove a corner of the backing to reveal the sticky back.
4. Line up the corner and edges on the photo mat, slowly remove the backing as you go and secure the wood veneer on the photo mat. If your veneer doesn't match up perfectly, allow the excess or gap at the outer edge. This will typically be covered by the frame. If you are using 1 piece of veneer, this is the final step — you can insert the photo mat into the frame. Read on to see the remaining steps for multiple pieces of veneer.
5. Once the first piece of veneer is secure, line up another piece of veneer on the back (keep the backing on). Mark all edges where the veneer meets the photo mat. Alternate the direction of the wood grain for a contrasting look.
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to secure the veneer to the photo mat. Then continue to fill the photo mat, repeating steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 until the photo mat is completely covered with wood veneer. As you trace, you may need to flip the photo mat and veneer over to mark edges as you go. If you can't see an edge to trace, on the veneer that is attached to the mat, align a ruler (or straight edge) with the edge of the veneer that you will be placing the additional veneer next to. Lay the veneer to be cut on top of the straight edge and line up the ruler with the straight edge below to draw a line. This will allow you to see the line below that you are matching and trace it accurately. Once complete, insert the mat into your frame.
CHAPTER 5LONG OAK PICTURE LEDGE
Time frame: 2 to 4 hours | Workspace: Large
Displaying layered art is one of my favorite ways to fill the space above a sofa. It's highly customizable (i.e., perfect for those who change their minds frequently), and layering creates your own mini art gallery. Inspired by similar versions on Chris Loves Julia (www.chrislovesjulia.com) and The DIY Playbook (www.thediyplaybook.com), we decided to create our own version!
MATERIALS
• 1 × 4 or 1 × 6 oak board (or similar wood; see Cut List)
• 1 × 2 oak board (or similar wood; see Cut List)
• Chop saw (optional)
• Level
• Tape measure or ruler
• Removable tape or pencil
• Stud finder
• Drill with ¼" (6-mm) paddle bit, ½" (13-mm) paddle bit and 1/8" (3-mm) bit
• Block of scrap wood
• 4¾" (12-cm) #14 screws (per stud spacing; 4 needed for a 10' [3-m] length)
• Masking or painter's tape
• 1¼" (3-cm) #6 brass screws (5 needed for a 10' [3-m] length)
• 220-grit sandpaper
• Sealant (optional; no sealer shown)
CUT LIST
• Bottom of picture ledge: (1) 1 × 6 or 1 × 4 board, cut to length (e.g., 10' [3 m] for a 10' [3-m] sofa). A 1 × 4 board will allow two average frames to be layered. If space allows, a 1 × 6 board is recommended, as it will accommodate more frames. However, check that the depth will work for your space. You don't want it to extend too far if it is a narrow hallway or a heavy-traffic area.
• Facer board of picture ledge: (1) 1 × 2 board, cut to length (e.g., 10' [3 m] for 10' [3-m] sofa).
1. Cut the bottom of the picture ledge and the facer board of the picture ledge to length with a chop saw or have them cut at your local home improvement store. (See "Purchasing Custom-Cut Wood" on here.)
2. Determine the placement of the picture ledge on the wall. Use a level and measure, marking temporarily with removable tape (or pencil marks). (Note: The picture ledge shown is mounted 8 inches [20 cm] above the sofa. Locate the studs with a stud finder — typically, studs are 16 inches [40 cm] apart.)
3. On the bottom of the picture ledge, mark the stud's location, measured in step 2, on the center of the board.
4. On the bottom of the picture ledge, prepare to drill through the marks created in step 2 by finding the center of the board and creating an X. Using a drill fitted with a ¼-inch (6-mm) paddle bit, drill fully through the width of the board into a block of scrap wood.
5. Place a 4¾-inch (12-cm) #14 screw and ½-inch (1-cm) paddle bit on the bottom of the picture ledge to determine how deep you should drill. The thread of the screw should go completely into the stud. Mark this depth by placing a piece of tape on the bit to serve as a point of reference.
6. Using the ½-inch (13-mm) paddle bit, drill in the previously created ¼-inch (6-mm) holes to the depth found in step 5.
7. On the facer board, mark 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) from the bottom (this will enter the center of the bottom of the picture ledge where the pieces will eventually be joined) and 2 inches (5 cm) from each edge, with equal spacing between. For example, for a 10-foot (3-m) length, the remaining holes will be 29 inches (72.5 cm) apart.
8. Predrill the facer board with a 1/8-inch (3-mm) bit through the marks created in steps 6 and 7.
9. Line up the bottom board on the wall with the marks created in step 3. Attach the board to the wall with a 4¾-inch (12-cm) #14 screw so that the screw is completely in the board.
10. To attach the facer board, line up the bottom of the facer board with the bottom of the picture ledge and secure them together with 1¼-inch (3-cm) #6 brass screws through the holes created in step 8. With a 220-grit sanding block, lightly sand any rough edges. I left my picture ledge unfinished, but if you're painting your ledge, or adding a stain, apply sealant before use.
CHAPTER 6CIRCLE SPLATTER ART
Time frame: 1 hour | Workspace: Small
Whether or not you consider yourself artistic, this splatter art is foolproof, affordable and looks great. Try creating a few versions — it's fun, fast and each version will be unique. Best of all, by cutting your own paper, you'll end up with several pieces that can be framed and customized.
MATERIALS
• Picture frame with a paper insert (12½" × 12½" [31.25 × 31.25–cm] frame shown)
• Mixed media paper (at least 2 sheets the size of your frame or larger; I recommend a few extra sheets for practicing)
• Self-healing cutting mat
• Metal ruler with cork back (preferably 18" [45 cm])
• X-ACTO knife with #11 blades
• Bowl (for drawing template; I used a standard 7½" [18.75-cm] salad bowl)
• Pencil
• Lidded container to hold water and paint (I used a washed and dried yogurt container and lid)
• Acrylic craft paint (satin finish, any color) or any water-based paint (I've also had good luck with leftover interior wall paint; see project notes)
• Cardboard or drop cloth (to protect the work surface from splatter)
• 1" (2.5-cm) painter's tape
• 1" (2.5-cm) paintbrush
• Disposable gloves
• Paper towel
1. Remove the paper insert from the frame (you will use this as a template). Place one sheet of the mixed media paper on a self-healing cutting mat and place the paper insert on the edge of the mixed media paper. Using the metal ruler and X-ACTO knife, cut out an exact copy of the insert. Repeat this process with the second sheet of mixed media paper.
(Continues…)
Excerpted from "Big Style in Small Spaces"
by .
Copyright © 2019 Sarah Dorsey.
Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Title Page,
Copyright Notice,
Dedication,
Introduction,
Getting Started,
Tips and Tricks,
LIVING,
Floating Console with Geometric Wood Doors,
Quick Chevron Coffee Table,
Leather Circle Pillow,
Wood Veneer Photo Mat,
Long Oak Picture Ledge,
Circle Splatter Art,
Sofa Arm Table,
ENTRY,
Coiled Rope Art,
Wood Veneer Welcome Sign,
Woven Rope Bench,
Oak-Framed Mirror,
KITCHEN,
Potato Stamp Tea Towel,
Leather-Wrapped Cabinet Handle,
Wooden Spoon Art,
Geometric Wood Veneer Box,
Elevated Herb Planter,
DINING,
Wood Slat Console Table,
Long Wooden Trivet,
Dip-Dyed Napkins,
Dyed Ripped Paper Abstract Art,
Shibori-Dyed Tablecloth,
BEDROOM,
Table Runner to Long Lumbar Pillow,
Leather-Wrapped Shade Sconce,
Tassel End-of-Bed Throw from Tablecloth,
Floating Nightstand with Fabric-Wrapped Drawer and Leather Pull,
Triptych Plant Art,
WORKSPACE,
Dyed Tape Geometric Art,
Glass Cylinder to Pencil Dispenser,
Watercolor Fabric-Wrapped Box,
Wood and Concrete Bookend,
Concrete and Wood Disk Lamp,
Resources,
Acknowledgments,
About the Author,
Index,
Copyright,